Pique fabric has a textured surface of small raised cells, often described as a waffle, honeycomb or bird's-eye pattern. In apparel it almost always means pique knit, the fabric used for classic polo shirts. The texture lets air move through and hides wrinkles, which is why it became the standard for golf, tennis and uniform polos. It prints differently from smooth jersey because the surface is not flat.
- Structure
- Knit with raised cells or ribs
- Common fiber
- Cotton, poly/cotton blends, polyester
- Classic use
- Polo shirts
- Name origin
- French piquer, to quilt
- Variants
- Single pique, double pique
Where pique comes from
The name comes from the French word piquer, meaning to quilt. The original piqué was a woven cotton cloth with raised cords or geometric patterns, made to imitate hand quilting. It still shows up in formal wear, as the stiff white fabric of a white tie shirt front and waistcoat.
The polo shirt is where most people meet it. Tennis player René Lacoste wore a short-sleeved shirt in a loosely knit cotton he called jersey petit piqué at the 1926 U.S. Championships, and began selling the shirt commercially in 1933. It breathed better and was more durable than the stiff, long-sleeved tennis shirts it replaced. Pique knit has been the polo default ever since.
Pique knit vs pique weave vs jersey
| Fabric | How it is made | Surface | Where you see it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Woven pique | Dobby weave, sometimes with stuffer yarns | Raised cords, waffle or bird's-eye | Formal shirt fronts, waistcoats |
| Pique knit | Knit with tuck stitches that form cells | Small honeycomb texture | Polo shirts, some tees |
| Jersey knit | Plain single knit | Smooth face | Most T-shirts |
Single pique vs double pique
Single pique has the textured cell pattern on the face of the fabric. Double pique carries the texture on both sides, making it a little heavier and more stable. Several Gildan polos use double pique, including the 64800 Softstyle polo, a 5.2 oz, 100% ring-spun cotton double pique per its spec sheet. Gildan's 64000 Softstyle tee is also listed by S&S as a double pique fabric, which is unusual for a T-shirt and part of why it feels different from the jersey 5000.
Not every polo is pique. Gildan's 8800 DryBlend polo is a 6 oz, 52/48 cotton/poly jersey knit, for example. Check the spec sheet if the texture matters to you.
Why pique works for polos
- Airflow. The open cell structure lets air through, which is why it was adopted for tennis and golf.
- Hides wrinkles. Texture breaks up creases better than smooth jersey.
- Holds structure. Pique is more stable than jersey, so collars and plackets keep their shape.
- Embroidery friendly. Gildan and S&S describe their pique as ideal for embroidery. The texture supports stitches well.
- Looks dressier. The surface reads more polished than a tee, which suits uniforms and corporate wear.
The tradeoff is a slightly rougher hand than jersey, and the texture can show pilling over time on cheaper poly blends.
Pressing DTF on pique
DTF works on pique, and it is one of the reasons embroidery shops add it. The textured surface means the transfer touches the high points of the cells first. You need firm pressure to push the adhesive into the texture.
- Use high pressure. Light pressure leaves the film bridging across the cells and the print can lift at the edges. Our standard is 300°F, high pressure, 10 seconds.
- Pre-press 5 seconds to flatten the texture and drive out moisture.
- Hot peel, then post-press 5 seconds with a cover sheet. The post-press pushes the print into the texture and softens the surface.
- Avoid the placket. Buttons and the placket hold the platen off the fabric. Use a pressing pillow or position the left chest print beside the placket.
- Watch the poly. Many uniform polos are 100% polyester or poly blends. Keep to 10 seconds to limit dye migration.
Small, detailed logos read best when they are a bit bolder than on jersey. Very thin lines and tiny text can break up across the cell texture. A left chest logo at 3 to 4 inches wide is the classic polo placement. See DTF for embroidery shops for how shops pair it with stitched work, and our placement guide for exact spots.
Uniform programs are a good DTF fit because logos do not need digitizing and there are no minimums. See work uniforms by industry for blank ideas, and types of shirt material for how pique compares to other fabrics.
FAQ
Is pique fabric breathable?
Yes. The raised cells create small air channels, which is why it became standard for tennis and golf polos.
Is pique cotton or polyester?
Pique is a knit structure, not a fiber. It is made in 100% cotton, cotton/poly blends and 100% polyester.
What is the difference between pique and jersey?
Jersey is a smooth single knit used for most T-shirts. Pique uses tuck stitches to make a textured cell pattern, so it is more structured and textured.
Can you heat press on pique polos?
Yes. Use high pressure, a short pre-press to flatten the texture, and a post-press with a cover sheet so the transfer settles into the surface.
Add logo polos without the digitizing
Gang up left chest logos in a few sizes on one sheet and press them on pique polos as orders come in. Shops running uniforms regularly can apply for wholesale pricing with pre-cut transfers and priority production.